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VENETIAN PLASTER, MARMORINO & TADELAKT

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Venetian Plaster and Marmorino have been used since the middle ages to create stunning finishes. There are many differing names in use today - they are often called Polished Plasters or Marbled Plasters because of the typical finishes that can be achieved. They can be smooth, shiny and marble like or textured to look like stone. We make two types of plaster to achieve different finishes.

Our Venetian Plaster is made to a traditional formula based on our own superfine matured lime putty and the finest Italian marble dust together with specially selected natural waxes and oils. It contains no cement, resins or acrylics. We supply it in 54 fabulous colours, plus brilliant white, and also provide a colour matching service. Venetian Plaster is designed to be added in very thin coats, from between 3 to 8, depending on the smoothness of the background and the desired effects. The overall thickness will usually be between 0.5 and 1mm.

Our Marmorino plaster uses a blend of coarser marble dusts than the Venetian Plaster. As with our Venetian Plaster, we supply it in 54 fabulous colours, plus brilliant white, and also provide a colour matching service. Mamorino is applied in slightly thicker coats up to 1mm. Usually 1 or 2 coats are applied, which can be finished smooth or textured.

Traditional Venetian Plasters work best over porous surfaces which provide some suction to aid adhesion. If the suction is excessive, we supply a natural casein-based primer which can be applied first. We supply special primers, DG27 and Gekkkosol Fine, for use on plasterboard or impervious materials, which primes and gives a sandpaper-like finish for extra key.

Our Venetian Plaster and Marmorino can be used externally as well. We supply a white pozzolanic additive that is mixed into the plaster at the time of use. Application is identical to the internal stages but over the next 3-4 weeks additional strength will be imparted to the plaster. For showers, wet rooms and floors, we recommend Tadelakt, a Moroccan style polished plaster.

These natural plasters are breathable. We supply a wide range of natural soaps, oils and waxes to give a polished finish or increased water repellancy for use in kitchens, bathrooms and showers. We also supply natural colourwashes and glazes so that colour washed effects can be achieved.

• We run regular one day courses on using Venetian Plaster, Marmorino and Tadelakt - click here
• For details of our Venetian plaster training DVD - click here

Manufactured Pigments - click the underlined names to see a larger image

*note The colours marked with an asterisk contain a blue pigment and it is advised that they be used within 14 days as the blue pigment is not lime-fast when wet, but is stable when dry.

Natural Pigments

USING VENETIAN PLASTER
Health & Safety - Venetian plasters are highly alkaline, use suitable gloves and eye protection.

Plasters based on lime putty set due to carbonation of the lime with carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. This is a relatively slow process.

First Stage -If the surface has excessive suction, prime with Kreidezeit Casein Primer. For plasterboard and impervious materials, prime with Bayosan DG27 or Kreidezeit Gekkkosol Fine. Separate guidesheets are available for all products. Otherwise, go straight to second stage.

Second Stage - If you have used any of the primers suggested in the first stage, they are typically dry in 3-4 hours. Apply a base coat of Kreidezeit Lime Wall finish (smooth) about 1 mm thick with a stainless steel laying trowel. This coat can be coloured for different veining and marbling effects. Leave to dry for 1/2 hour and then trowel flat, leaving the texture you want to show through the subsequent coats of Venetian plaster. Leave to dry and harden for at least 3-4 hours.

Third Stage- Apply a first thin coat of Venetian Plaster, using a stainless steel trowel or spatula. Work on a small area at a time, about about 0.5m x 0.5m maximum. Use the edge of the trowel or spatula at at a slightly greater angle to the wall, apply in short cross-cross strokes, keeping the edge wet. The plaster surface should be kept as flat as possible. Continue across the wall until you have completed the first coat. Coloured plaster will become lighter in colour as it dries.

Fourth Stage - The second thin coat can be applied within 1-2 hours. Work in the same way as for the first coat, but hold the trowel or spatula at a slightly greater angle to the wall, so that the edge can be used to fill in any defects or hollows in the first coat. To achieve different effects in the final finish this coat can be partially applied, eg 50 - 75% coverage - this may mean at least three coats will be necessary overall.
Two or three coats should give ample thickness to achieve the three dimensional effect. When you start the final coat, its advisable to start the burnishing process within 30 - 60 minutes of application. Test a small area to see if its ready. If you burnish too soon, the suction of the trowel or spatula can lift off the final coat of plaster leaving small indents. If you burnish too late it will take a lot more effort to get a shine. On a large wall, it will help to have two people working together, one applying the plaster and another following on behind with the burnishing.

Fifth Stage - Burnishing

1. Flatten the surface with the edge of the trowel, but do not overwork the surface. If you need to flatten the plaster further, leave the plaster to dry and spray with the Olive Soap. Trowel lightly again.

2. Once the plaster has dried again to 75% of the dry colour, you can polish the plaster with the edge or flat of the trowel or spatula, using short, circular strokes. The smaller the tool, the more pressure can be applied to the surface. The more even your plaster, the more consistent the shine you can achieve. Typically parts of the surface may be very shiny, other parts less so.

Sixth Stage - Soaping and Waxing. Allow a day or two after burnishing for the Venetian plaster to cure and harden. Venetian plaster is breathable and will allow moisture vapour to pass through in both directions. For extra protection or to increase its water shedding there are various combinations of natural soaps and waxes that we supply. All the comprehensive guidesheets for their use are on our website.

For increased water repellancy durability apply a coat of undiluted polishing soap with a brush. When dry, buff with a lambswool bonnet.

For increased water repellancy and shine, add a coat of any of the following waxes:
Kreidezeit Punic Wax - this is a beeswax paste that may be applied by trowel. It can be buffed with a lambswool bonnet to an intense shine.
Biofa beeswax balm - great shine, though more labour intensive unless you use a polishing machine
Biofa hard floor wax - similar to beeswax, but a harder wearing surface

We supply a range of natural colourwashes, glazes and colourants which are used to create special effects.

USING MARMORINO

Plasters based on lime putty set due to carbonation of the lime with carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. This is a relatively slow process and as marmorino is typically applied in slightly thicker coats than Venetian plaster, its important to leave the first coat to cure properly for maximum durability. This may mean leaving it a day in warmer weather with a porous background, or two to three days in winter with an impervious background.

First Stage - As marmorino is applied in thicker coats, you may need to sand the surface only to remove excessive high spots. If the surface has excessive suction, prime with Biofa sealing primer or Biofa Special sealing primer. Prime with DG27. Separate guidesheets are available for all products.

Second Stage - Apply a first thin coat of marmorino, using a steel trowel or spatula, typically around 1 mm thick. Work on a small area at a time, about 0.5m x 0.5m maximum. Use the edge of the trowel or spatula to keep the coat thin. If the surface was primed with DG27, this first coat should be thick enough to cover over all of the key. The plaster surface should be kept as flat as possible. Continue across the wall until you've completed the first coat. Coloured plaster will become lighter in colour as it dries.

Third Stage - Check that the plaster is cured sufficiently for the second thin coat to be applied. It should be difficult to mark with a finger nail but not a metal tool. Some effects can be achieved in a single coat, or a single coat may be partially applied so that the gaps may be filled with the second coat. Work in the same way as for the first coat with a thickness of around 1mm, but hold the trowel or spatula at a slightly greater angle to the surface, so that the edge can be used to fill in any defects or hollows in the first coat.

Fourth Stage - The surface can be finished in a number of ways

1. trowelled smooth
2. wood floated when the surface is firm for an open textured finish
3. distressed using the suction of the trowel
4. ruled in imitation of ashlar stone

Fifth Stage - Oiling and Waxing. Allow at least three days after burnishing for the marmorino to cure and harden. Marmorino is breathable and will allow moisture vapour to pass through in both directions. For extra protection or to increase its water shedding there are various combinations of natural oils and waxes that we supply. All the comprehensive guidesheets for their use are on our website.

For increased durability apply one or two coats of Biofa Universal Hard Oil or Biofa Weather Protective Oil
For increased water repellency, add a coat of the following waxes:
Biofa liquid wax - easier to apply to a textured surface, but more effort to shine
Kreidezeit Punic Wax - if the Marmorino surface has been trowelled smooth - for Tech Sheet Click Here

We supply a range of natural colourwashes, glazes, micas and colourants which are used to create special effects.

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