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The requirements for
repairs to an existing wall will differ from a new wall separating your
patio from the neighbour's! The type of stone or brick used will affect
the strength of mortar in which to bed them. Prior to 1919 most walls
were of traditional solid construction and masonry bedded in lime putty
mortars, often with earth (subsoil) mixed in as well.
Rebuilding and repairing with lime mortars offers a number of advantages:
- they will match the
existing structure for porosity and density, allowing moisture to move in a similar
way
- they can accommodate
general movement better than a hard mortar
- soluble
salts will be less likely to crystallise in the stone or brick faces
- they
will match existing walls aesthetically
Before
starting any work, always check that the building is not listed, if it
is contact the local authority conservation officer to discuss the project.
Preparation:
Try to select stone from a local quarry to match the existing. Take a
sample along to the quarry if you're not sure. You can usually get two
size ranges; 4"-6" and 6" - 9". For the bedding mortar use a volume mix
of 7 parts coarse sharp well graded sand ( from fine up to 8mm size) and
2 parts mature lime putty, mixed in advance for at least a week. Lime
mortars gain strength from carbonation with carbon dioxide from the air.
In damp, frost prone or very exposed situations it may be appropriate
to add an extra ingredient to a lime putty mortar to increase its compressive
strength and frost resistance. Traditionally volcanic ash or brick dust
were added, these are forms of burnt clay called pozzolans after the Italian
town of Pozzuoli where volcanic ash was used by the Romans. We use a calcined
clay Argical M-1000 at a volume gauge of 10:1 up to 6:1 by volume depending
on the degree of exposure and the job required of it. It won't give an
overnight set but will slowly begin to add extra compressive strength
to the mortar after a few days.
Building:
If you're a novice, position a stone dry first to make sure it looks right
and you have got the best face showing. Stagger the vertical joints so
there isn't a vertical joint running continuously up the wall
Premixing:
All lime putty mortars benefit from being pre-mixed for perhaps a couple
of weeks and then "knocked up" again prior to use to plasticise them -
this reduces shrinkage in the mortar. Natural
hydraulic limes (NHL) benefit from premixing by an hour then mixing
again just prior to use.
Application:
Use a mortar bed just thick enough to spread the load evenly, finishing
just beyond the front face and then trimming flush with the edge of the
gauging trowel. Use a through stone that can tie together the entire thickness
of the wall or thereabouts, one every square metre of wall face, pinning
the wall together from both faces. The mortar shouldn't dry out too quickly
- protect from sun, wind and rain with damp hessian cloth. Protect from
rain if necessary. Build up to a maximum of 1 metre high at a time and
then let the lime mortar cure for 2 to 3 days. When dry, the joints can
be brushed with a stiff brush to expose the aggregate.
Time
of year:
Please note that great care should be taken not to be applied too late
in the year or too soon in spring or else frost damage may occur. It is
important to prevent frost crystals forming within the mortar soon after
application. The ultimate hardening process takes up to a month for each
millimetre of thickness. Therefore it may take 20 months before mortar
has carbonated to a depth of 20mm.
Please
contact us full more guidance and information.
Safety:
Limes are caustic. Always wear eye protection and protective gloves and
clothing and follow the safety instructions on the labels.
Our advice and information are given in good faith. It's important that
users satisfy themselves that they've chosen an appropriate product and
have a suitably skilled workforce.
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